Firstly, if mushrooms are going to be the mainstay of my recipes for a month, I have created a basic roasted melange of mushrooms which can be cooked in bulk, easily stored and then quickly adapted to make up soups, pates, pie or omlette fillings, souffles, pasta dishes or thickeners for stews or gravy, as needs demand. Once made, this roasted melange can be portioned, lightly coated in walnut oil infused with a few chilli flakes and crushed black pepper – NO SALT – and then refridgerated inside a sealed container with a paper towel under and above the mix to absorb any excess moisture.
Slow roasting as opposed to fast frying tends to enrich and enhance the flavour of the mushrooms and provide a yummy reduced gravy or jus in the bottom of the pan. However, if you are in a hurry, you can flash fry the melange very lightly coated with rapeseed or groundnut oil, in a very hot frying pan – Do not use olive oil because it will burn too easily!
Groundnut, rape seed, walnut or olive oil can be used in the roasting – rape seed is quite fruity and nutty but groundnut and walnut are deliciously nutty and tend to give the mushrooms a more meaty taste and crisper texture.
Pine nuts also really add a lot to the overall flavours, as do walnuts.
Depending on personal taste preferences, different herbs and spices can be used, but always gently warm up (do not burn) whole, crushed or powdered spices in a little oil of your choice, before adding to your creation.
Fresh, dried or flaked chillies as well as Sambal can be used to heat up the dish.
Mushrooms work exceptionally well with chopped fresh ginger root, star anise, mustard seeds, lime leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, fennel, dill, coriander, thyme, parsley, and bay leaves. However, always use in moderation because you do not want to overpower the flavour of the mushrooms. Finely diced mild shallots or sweet onions can be used and garlic should be either cut in half and rubbed onto the pan you are using to cook in, or used whole. Garlic only becomes strong and sometimes bitter if diced or crushed.
Butter can be added, though I prefer not, but if it is, only unsalted.
Salt makes the mushrooms sweaty because it brings out the moisture in them. Therefore only add a little coarse sea salt to mushroom dishes at the end of the cooking, just before serving, otherwise your mushroom mix will be watery, limp and unappetising.
Goat’s cheese, as well as wilted spinach or watercress are a joy with any mushrooms.
Dried porcini mushrooms are wonderful once soaked to re-hydrate and always keep the soaking stock for extra taste.
Try using as many different kinds of mushrooms you can because their tastes are so different and exciting.
Only collect wild mushrooms with experts because some fungi are very poisonous indeed. In fact lethal!
How to Prepare A Roasted Melange of Mushrooms – Basic Mix for Many Mushroom Dishes.
Add enough groundnut, rape seed, walnut, or olive oil to brush over the base of a pan.
Rub a garlic clove which has been halved, into the pan and oil. Once the base of the pan has been infused with the garlic, remove it from the mix.
Slice the various mushrooms roughly – not too finely – and add to the pan.
*Alternatively, you could put the sliced mushrooms and a teaspoon of oil into a plastic bag and shake it all well together before adding the mix to the hot pan infused with garlic*
Add a good sprinkling of pine nuts and stir around the medley of oil and mushrooms.
I usually also add plenty of chilli flakes, loads of black pepper, a star anise, a little finely sliced fresh root ginger, half a teaspoon of sweet hot oak smoked paprika, a couple of lime leaves, 3 whole cardamom, half a teaspoon each of crushed mustard, cumin and fennel seeds to create that final aniseed back drop I like so much.
HOWEVER add your preferred spices and herbs until the taste seems right for your own palate. Remember do not overdo the quantity of oil or spices because mushrooms absorb flavours far more readily than you imagine.
Cook in a hot oven until browned and crispy but do not over-cook. 10 minutes should be about right.
Remove from oven, discard lime leaves, star anise and cardamoms, and then stir in lots of freshly chopped parsley, a little coarse sea-salt, crushed black or mixed pepper corns and a drizzle of walnut or rape seed oil.
Once you have prepared this basic roasted melange of mushrooms, try using some in this simple meal:
Place half a wholemeal roll inside one of my portioners, dribble a little olive oil onto the surface of the roll with some coarse sea salt, add a good heaped spoonful of the melange of roasted mushrooms onto the roll and then top with a poached egg, black pepper, more chilli flakes and a tiny sprinkling of sweet oak smoked paprika.
Next week I will explain how to use the melange in my favourite dish:
Mushroom Lasagne.
Then the following week, my unbeatable Mushroom Soup with goat’s cheese croutons.